Two Broads & A Beetle: FISHING SHRINE WITH JIZO AND KWAN YIN

Umi Mamori Jizo, the Ocean Protector Jizo.

In this rock carving Jizo holds the six-ringed pilgrim’s staff

with his right hand to open the doors between the various realms;

in his left hand he carries the sun to shine light.

Whenever possible I like to stop by the cute Japanese fishing shrine on Kalanianaole Highway (between Hanauma Bay and Sandy Beach), even if it’s just to check out the offerings people leave on the altar. In addition to the usual incense sticks and flowers, today there is an abundance of fresh papaya, mango, apples, and a package of crackers. Also lots of coins that time has corroded. The popular Bodhisattva Jizo, guardian of children, women, and travelers occupies the main part of the altar.

Because fishermen and swimmers also call on Jizo for protection, first-generation Japanese in Hawaii set up shrines along East Oahu’s beaches and sea cliffs in the late 1800's to protect them as they surf-cast for deep ocean fish like the ulua.

You can see the top of the shelter that the fishermen built.

Barely visible is the line of fishing poles (top right of photo).

Is this the place they call Bamboo Ridge?

For the (bamboo) fishing poles along the rock edge?

Jizo is also a companion to those who have died nearby. Because the road along the mountains is narrow and winding, and the view is spectacular, and therefore distracting, car accidents are not uncommon. You've seen the occasional roadside altars, haven't you? An annual ceremony honors the memory of those victims, as well as those whose ashes have been scattered there, like Ann Dunham's, Barack Obama’s mother.

Originally a Jizo statue was installed in 1932. Unfortunately it got vandalized (Who would do such a stupid senseless thing?!) It was replaced with the current lava rock altar in 1940. The image of Jizo was carved by artist Sentaro Otsubo.

Priests from Shingon Shu Japanese Buddhist temple in Honolulu held the very first blessing ceremony for the original Jizo statue. With the exception of the years during World War II, they have continued to hold ceremonies there every year, a wonderful tradition. I'm curious to find out when they take place. If it's not a too early morning sunrise kind of thing, I might even be able to attend.

The other side of the altar is dedicated to Kwan Yin (or Kannon), the Bodhisattva of Mercy and Compassion. Like Jizo, she is the protector of children, women, and seamen.

A much bigger and more glorious statue of Kwan Yin used to adorn the altar here. All that’s left of it now is its gilt-edge pink lotus blossom base, broken in half and propped up against the wall. Vandalism again? The replacement statue is much smaller and already pretty beat up -- listing, fingers missing, and other pieces broken off. Sad.